Loose Diamond Evolution: Then and Today

weddingThe beautiful 58 faceted round brilliant diamond which has become synonymous with the slogan, “a woman’s best friend”, has gone through a lengthy evolution until today.

The first 58 faceted round brilliant diamond was fashioned in the 1650’s and early 1700’s. As the cut parameters of the diamond evolved into the 1800’s, the first “old-miner” and “European cut” diamonds were born. The premise of these diamonds was to sacrifice as little carat weight as possible from the diamond rough, even at the significant expense of the finished diamonds beauty and brilliancy.

In 1860 Henry Morse opened a diamond cutting facility in Boston, MA. His objective was to overhaul the traditional old-European cuts by recutting them for increased beauty (more carat weight removed) instead of maximum weigh retention. His finished/polished diamonds were considered the most beautiful of the time.

In 1919 the famous Marcel Tolkowsky’s brilliant diamond cut diamond proportions was introduced together with his acclaimed published thesis on diamond cut. This framework for a diamonds cut parameters became known as the ideal cut diamond standard, by which round diamonds were fashioned into the most ideal cut for maximization of the diamonds beauty and brilliancy.

In the early 1930’s Lazare Kaplan began cutting diamonds to the Tolkowsky ideal proportions for ideal cut diamonds.

In 1931 the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) was founded. The GIA and the AGS (American Gemological Society) would carve a niche for themselves in the next 45 years as being the standard bearers of the diamond grading industry and for enabling consumers to select the finest ideal cut diamonds by means of their grading systems.

In 1953, Richard T. Liddicoat developed a unique and novel grading system for diamonds that included a crucial framework for the evaluation of a diamonds cut.

In 1964-66, the AGS developed a 0-10 scale for grading diamond the cut of a loose diamond.

In 1996 the AGS grading Laboratories enters the grading world with a bang by beginning to issue a specific cut grade for round brilliant diamonds.

In 2005, the AGS Laboratories introduces the AGS-0 Ideal Princess Cut Diamond. These are the creme-de-la-creme and the finest, most brilliant princess cut diamonds on the market. They also update their brilliance and light performance measuring metrics for the round brilliant diamond.

In 2006 the GIA laboratories jump on the “cut grade” and “light performance” “bandwagon'” by updating their own grading system for round diamonds to reflect and include a measure for the diamonds crucial cut grade.